Corn soup

This recipe, from the chef Michael Elégbèdé, of the Lagos and New York-based dinner series Ìtàn, perfectly reflects his belief that ingredients are meant to evoke time and place. Across the vast Sahel and Savanna regions of West Africa, dried, ground or fermented masara (maize or corn in Hausa) is available year-round, but the fresh maize season (June to October) is an opportunity to partake in some of the region's most exciting dishes: whole steamed and roasted cobs, maize dumplings, brothy vegetable soups. This soup celebrates corn in its simplest form.

It begins with a cob-infused stock, then the kernels are lightly sautéed with onions, garlic and chile, as the stock is added and simmered. Maishanu, a type of clarified butter made from fresh cow milk, is a nod to the region's nomadic, pastoral Fulani communities of the region, but the ghee here steps in. Proceed with caution when puréeing the hot soup to avoid any splatters, and add lime juice for a slight pop of acid.

Elégbèdé recommends topping with crumbled goat cheese, fried crispy shallots, homemade or store-bought, and more ghee for a silky, full-bodied finish.